How Did These Terms Come About?

How Did These Terms Come About?

If you understand the working principles of a circular knitting machine, then understanding some of the terminology related to it can be both interesting and simple. Every industry is similar in this regard; you cannot imagine how modern items in your life came to be without knowing their origins, but once you learn about them, you realize that they are the result of industry development.

By spending time researching, you will find that it is difficult to fully grasp everything at once. However, with time and experience, truly dedicating yourself to the field makes it harder not to understand.

Why is Jacquard called "Jacquard"? In Chinese, it is named based on an illustrative description. The Jacquard process is like embroidery where threads are lifted up and down to form raised letters on sportswear or hats. Therefore, the term "Ti Hua" (literally "lifting flowers") vividly describes this process. The English word "Jacquard" comes from the name of Joseph Marie Jacquard, a French weaver from Lyon. He invented the Jacquard loom controlled by punched cards in 1804. Thus, the term "Jacquard" derives from his name.

Why is Terry called "Terry"? The Chinese term "Mao Quan" (literally "fuzzy loops") is also descriptive. It refers to the loops on one or both sides of terry cloth, which appear fuzzy and are commonly found in towels and bathrobes. The English word "Terry" might originate from the French word "tirer" (to pull). Terry is often mistakenly thought to be a person's name, but it is actually a process name because the loops resemble something pulled out.

Lycra is actually a registered trademark. A team of scientists from DuPont invented spandex in 1958, and "Lycra" is DuPont’s trademark, though it is commonly used as a synonym for spandex. Therefore, Lycra refers to spandex.

Thus, circular knitting machine industry terms can derive from people's names, process names, or even trademarks. Here is a summary of the terms:

People Names:

Jacquard: Derived from Joseph Marie Jacquard, referring to the jacquard mechanism or process used in circular knitting machines to create complex patterns.

Rib: Although not directly named after a person, "Rib machine" was historically associated with inventors like William Cotton and now generally refers to rib structures.

Lukin: A regional term for specific sinker or cam arrangements.

Processes:

Interlock (Double-faced or Cotton Wool): A double-cylinder circular knitting structure where both sides consist of face loops. Double-faced is a broad category, and Interlock is the most substantial member within it. In Europe, Double Jersey is often referred to as double-faced, typically meaning Interlock.

Single Jersey (Plain Knit): The most basic circular knitting structure, featuring face loops on one side and floats on the other.

Pique: A surface with raised granular structures, commonly used in polo shirts.

Terry: A loop-forming process, available in single-sided or double-sided versions.

Plating: Feeding two yarns front and back to create different colors on each side.

Fleece: Fabric with a brushed backside, forming a fleece texture.

Jacquard Knitting: Using needle selection systems to knit patterns, which can be single-sided or double-sided.

Transfer Stitch: Transferring loops from one needle to another to create openwork or connecting effects.

Others:

Cylinder & Dial (Needle Bed): Core components of a circular knitting machine: the lower cylinder (Cylinder) and the upper dial (Dial), used for mounting needles.

Needle: Includes latch needles, compound needles, etc., key elements for loop formation.

Cam (Triangle or Cam): Metal blocks controlling needle movement paths, determining looping, tucking, floating actions.

Cam Box (Triangle Box): A box-like structure for installing and fixing triangle cams, controlling needle movements, and serving as a core transmission component of the circular knitting machine. Typically made of high-strength alloy castings, ensuring precise positioning of triangles.

Triangle Holder or Cam Carrier or Triangle Base: Small metal bases directly securing individual or groups of triangles, adjustable in height or angle, embedded or screwed into the cam box for precise triangle positioning. Unlike the cam box, triangle holders are subcomponents (part of the cam box), while the cam box is an assembly component (containing multiple triangle holders and part of the machine frame).

Adjustment Knob or Dial Knob: Manual knobs with scales for fine-tuning the positions of triangle holders, sinkers, or take-down rollers, thus controlling loop lengths, fabric densities, or tensions. Usually featuring metal knobs + scale dials marked with scales (e.g., 0–10) for easy process reproduction.

Blowing or Dust-Removal System: Utilizing compressed air or fans to periodically or continuously blow away fly fibers, cotton dust, and oil stains from the cylinder, dial, and triangle areas, preventing needle and sinker blockages, reducing yarn breaks and defects, and enhancing operational stability.

Yarn Holder or Yarn Stand or Yarn Creel: Metal stands or frames for mounting yarn cones, usually located at the top or periphery of the circular knitting machine, ensuring correct angles and heights for unwinding yarns and maintaining stable tensions. High-end models feature independent tensioners and ceramic yarn guides.

Sinker: Components assisting in pulling and holding old loops, affecting fabric tensions.

Gauge (Machine Gauge): Such as E28, E32, indicating the number of needles per inch, with higher values resulting in finer fabrics.

Course Density (Wale Count): Number of loop rows per unit length.

Wale Density (Course Count): Number of loop columns per unit length.

Yarn Feeder (Yarn Guide): Devices guiding yarns into the loop formation area.

Take-down Roller: Pulling fabric downward to control fabric tensions.

Lycra or Spandex Feeding: Separate feeding systems for elastic yarns to increase fabric elasticity.

Each term encompasses far more information than what has been summarized here. Understanding the general direction is the first step, and whether the path ahead is smooth or challenging depends on the experiences of those who have walked it. As modern individuals, grasping these concepts isn't particularly difficult. With enough time invested, understanding deepens progressively.