How to Choose the Right Circular Knitting Machine for Your Target Fabric

Selecting a circular knitting machine should begin with the fabric—not simply with machine diameter, gauge, speed or price.

Two machines with similar specifications may be designed for completely different fabric structures. At the same time, one machine may produce several types of fabric by changing the cam arrangement, needles, yarn-feeding configuration or other knitting components.

Before investing in new equipment, a knitting factory should first define the target fabric, yarn specification, fabric weight, end use and required production capacity. This guide explains how to match common knitted fabrics with the appropriate circular knitting machine.

Start with the Target Fabric

The most important question is not:

“What is the fastest machine available?”

The better question is:

“What fabric do we want to produce, and what machine configuration can produce it consistently?”

A machine running at a high RPM does not necessarily provide the best production result. Actual output and fabric quality are also affected by:

• Machine diameter

• Machine gauge

• Number of feeders

• Yarn count and composition

• Stitch length

• Fabric GSM

• Knitting structure

• Lycra or spandex feeding

• Machine operating efficiency

• Yarn quality and factory conditions

For this reason, the target fabric specification should be confirmed before the final machine configuration is selected.

Fabric and Machine Selection Guide

The final machine selection must still be based on the actual fabric sample or complete production specification.

1. Single Jersey Circular Knitting Machine

A single jersey circular knitting machine uses one set of cylinder needles. It is one of the most widely used machines for producing lightweight and medium-weight knitted fabrics.

Typical fabrics include:

• Plain single jersey

• Cotton jersey

• Polyester jersey

• Spandex jersey

• Piqué

• Basic mesh structures

• Small geometric structures

• Striped fabrics

Single jersey fabrics are commonly used for T-shirts, underwear, sportswear, children’s clothing and casual garments.

A multi-track cam system allows different combinations of knit, tuck and miss stitches. This gives the machine greater flexibility for producing piqué, mesh and other structured fabrics.

When selecting a single jersey machine, the buyer should consider whether the target fabric requires Lycra, an open-width take-down system, additional cam tracks or a particularly high number of feeders.

2. Single Jersey Open-Width Machine

A single jersey open-width machine cuts and opens the tubular fabric during production before winding it into a roll.

Its main advantage is the reduction of the permanent center crease that may appear when tubular fabric is folded and rolled. A smoother open-width roll can also simplify subsequent dyeing, finishing and garment-cutting processes.

This machine is particularly suitable for factories producing:

• Fine-gauge single jersey

• Lightweight synthetic fabrics

• Spandex jersey

• Printing fabrics

• High-volume apparel fabrics

For example, a 42-inch, 36-gauge machine with 272 feeders can be configured for high-volume production. However, any production figure—such as 500 kg per 24 hours—must be evaluated according to yarn count, GSM, stitch length, machine speed and actual operating efficiency.

3. Three-Thread Fleece Circular Knitting Machine

A three-thread fleece machine is designed specifically for fleece and sweatshirt fabrics. It uses separate yarn systems to form the face, binding and fleece layers.

Typical products include:

• Three-thread fleece

• Brushed sweatshirt fabric

• Unbrushed fleece

• French terry

• Hoodie and tracksuit fabrics

This machine should not be confused with an ordinary single jersey machine. Although both use cylinder needles, their cam arrangement, sinker system, yarn feeding and fabric formation requirements are different.

Factories should specify the required fabric weight, fleece-loop structure, yarn count and whether the back will be brushed before selecting the machine.

4. Rib and Interlock Circular Knitting Machines

Rib and interlock machines use needles in both the cylinder and dial. They produce more stable and structured double-knit fabrics than an ordinary single jersey machine.

Rib fabric is elastic and is commonly used for:

• Collars

• Cuffs

• Waistbands

• Underwear

• Stretch garments

• Full-width rib fabrics

Interlock fabric has a smoother surface and better dimensional stability. It is widely used for:

• Premium T-shirts

• Underwear

• Babywear

• Sportswear

• Yoga and fitted garments

• Structured fashion fabrics

Some machines can be configured for both rib and interlock production. For example, a 2×2-track rib configuration may be converted to a 2×4-track interlock process by adding the required cams and rearranging the cam configuration.

The exact conversion method depends on the machine structure, cylinder and dial arrangement, needle selection and fabric requirements. It should therefore be confirmed before ordering.

5. Electronic Jacquard Circular Knitting Machine

A computerized jacquard machine provides electronic needle selection, allowing the factory to change patterns through the control system rather than relying only on fixed mechanical arrangements.

Depending on the machine type, it can produce:

• Geometric jacquard

• Logo patterns

• Fashion textures

• Mesh effects

• Functional zones

• Decorative structures

• Single or double-knit jacquard fabrics

Electronic jacquard is particularly useful for factories serving fashion, sportswear and differentiated fabric markets. The value of the machine lies not only in its pattern capability, but also in the factory’s ability to develop commercially useful fabrics.

Before selecting a jacquard machine, the customer should confirm:

• Single- or double-knit construction

• Required pattern and fabric sample

• Machine gauge

• Number of feeders

• Yarn type

• Number of selection positions

• Electronic yarn-feeding requirements

• Pattern-design and technical-support requirements

6. Transfer Jacquard Circular Knitting Machine

A transfer jacquard machine can transfer loops between the cylinder and dial needles. This enables fabric structures that cannot be achieved by ordinary electronic needle selection alone.

Possible fabric effects include:

• Open-hole patterns

• Engineered mesh

• Lace-like structures

• Three-dimensional textures

• Fashion jacquard

• Functional ventilation areas

• High-value sportswear fabrics

Transfer jacquard is a more specialized process. The machine configuration must match the intended fabric structure, particularly when producing fine-gauge fabrics.

Factories considering this technology should not select the machine only from a general catalogue. It is better to provide a physical fabric sample, design file or clear fabric image so that the manufacturer can evaluate the knitting process.

Understanding Diameter, Gauge and Feeders

Machine diameter

Diameter influences the tubular fabric width and the number of garment panels that can be obtained after cutting. Common choices include 30, 32, 34, 36 and 38 inches, although other diameters are available.

A larger diameter does not automatically mean that the machine is more suitable. The correct diameter depends on the finished fabric width and production plan.

Machine gauge

Gauge refers to the number of needles per inch. A higher gauge generally uses finer needles and is suitable for finer yarns and smoother fabrics.

However, fine-gauge production requires:

• Suitable yarn quality

• Precise cylinder and dial manufacturing

• Accurate cam adjustment

• Stable yarn feeding

• Proper factory maintenance

• Skilled operators

The highest available gauge is not always the best choice. The gauge should match the target fabric, yarn and end use.

Number of feeders

More feeders can increase theoretical production because more knitting courses are formed during each machine revolution.

However, output cannot be judged from feeder quantity alone. Some jacquard or transfer structures may use certain feeders for special knitting actions rather than continuous yarn feeding. Fabric structure, yarn conditions and machine efficiency must therefore be considered together.

Information to Provide Before Requesting a Machine Configuration

For an accurate recommendation, the buyer should provide as much of the following information as possible:

1. Fabric photo or physical sample

2. Fabric composition

3. Yarn count and yarn type

4. Required GSM

5. Finished fabric width

6. Tubular or open-width production

7. Required daily capacity

8. Lycra or spandex requirement

9. Target application

10. Existing machine specification, if applicable

If the exact technical information is unavailable, a fabric sample is often the best starting point.

Choose a Production Solution, Not Only a Machine

The right circular knitting machine is the one that can repeatedly produce the required fabric with stable quality, practical operating speed and acceptable production cost.

Machine price and maximum RPM are important, but they should not be evaluated separately from fabric development, yarn feeding, operator experience, maintenance and technical support.

A reliable supplier should first understand the buyer’s target fabric and production plan, then recommend the appropriate machine type, diameter, gauge, feeder quantity and optional equipment.

If you are unsure which machine configuration matches your fabric, send HENGYE Machinery a fabric photo or sample together with the yarn count, GSM and intended application. Our technical team can evaluate the fabric and recommend a suitable circular knitting solution.