Tubular and Open-Width Systems Compared
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Tubular and Open-Width Systems Compared

Views: 0     Author: Jason Hong     Publish Time: 2026-10-20      Origin: Site

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Decision factor

Tubular system

Open-width system

Fabric form at take-down

Tube

Slit and spread into one layer

Centre-crease exposure

Possible when the tube is flattened or folded

Designed to avoid a permanent folded centre line

Fabric edges

No cut edges during knitting

Two cut edges must be controlled

Downstream compatibility

Suitable for tubular dyeing, compacting or products kept in tube form

Suitable for open-width inspection, dyeing, printing, finishing and cutting

Machine configuration

Simpler take-down and winding arrangement

Adds slitting, spreading, edge guiding and synchronized winding functions

Floor space and handling

Often more compact

Requires space for the open-width frame and roll handling

Best purchasing reason

The process benefits from keeping the fabric tubular

Crease control and open-width processing create measurable value

Neither system is automatically better. The question is which one removes the most cost and risk from the mill’s complete production route.

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When Open-Width Knitting Creates Value

1. The Fabric Is Sensitive to a Centre Crease

Flattening and winding tubular fabric may create a centre line. Some marks relax; others remain after dyeing, compacting or printing. Fine-gauge, lightweight, smooth and elastane-containing fabrics may require particular attention.

Online slitting avoids winding the tube as two compressed layers with a fixed fold. Open-width frames are commonly designed for fabric without a centre crease.

However, an open-width frame does not eliminate every possible fabric mark. Correct spreading, take-down tension, edge guidance and winding pressure are still essential.

2. The Next Process Requires Open Fabric

If downstream dyeing, printing, stentering, compacting, inspection or cutting uses open-width rolls, opening fabric on the knitting machine can remove a separate slitting operation.

The mill should map the complete material flow:

  1. How will greige fabric be inspected?

  2. Will it be dyed in tubular or open form?

  3. Is printing planned?

  4. Which finishing machines will receive the roll?

  5. Will the garment cutter use a single open layer or tubular fabric?

Compare the saved handling and waiting time with the added machine complexity.

3. The Mill Needs Full-Width Inspection and Roll Presentation

Open-width rolls allow full-surface inspection without first opening the tube and suit customers requesting greige or finished fabric in open rolls.

The required finished width must be confirmed before selecting machine diameter. A larger diameter is not automatically better because width also depends on fabric structure, yarn, stitch length, relaxation and finishing shrinkage.

When a Tubular System May Be the Better Choice

Open width should not be purchased only because it appears more advanced. Tubular production may be appropriate when:

  • The dyeing and compacting line is designed for tubular fabric.

  • The fabric will later be used in tube form.

  • Centre-crease risk is acceptable or controlled by another take-down solution.

  • The mill values a simpler fabric path and does not need online slitting.

  • Floor space, operator skill or maintenance capacity is limited.

  • The expected order mix does not justify the additional investment.

Specialized take-down systems may also reduce crease and pressure marks while keeping fabric tubular. Compare designs, not only the labels “tubular” and “open width.”

Special Considerations for Single Jersey

Single jersey tends to curl at cut edges. The slitting position, spreader, edge control and winding tension must manage this without stretching or distortion.

For lightweight or elastane-plated single jersey, ask the supplier to demonstrate:

  • Stable cutting at the planned running speed

  • Uniform tension across the width

  • Edge control without excessive stretching

  • Smooth winding without wrinkles or telescoping

  • Acceptable results at the target GSM and yarn count

The trial should use the customer’s actual fabric requirement rather than a heavier and easier demonstration fabric.

Special Considerations for Double Jersey

Interlock, rib and other double knits are generally more stable, but still need synchronized cutting, spreading and rolling. Fine-gauge or elastane fabrics may be sensitive to uneven tension.

Confirm whether the machine configuration supports the required cylinder and dial arrangement, feeder quantity, gauge, fabric width and take-down range. If the mill intends to change between different structures, changeover requirements must also be included in the investment decision.

Calculate the Total Process Cost

Machine price is only one part of the comparison. A useful investment calculation should include:

  • Cost of a separate slitting process

  • Labour and internal fabric transport

  • Losses caused by persistent centre creases or pressure marks

  • Edge loss and handling after slitting

  • Maintenance of blades, spreaders, sensors and winding parts

  • Changeover and cleaning time

  • Floor-space requirements

  • Roll size and warehouse compatibility

  • Compatibility with existing dyeing and finishing equipment

Open width may be justified when it removes repeated downstream cost or protects high-value fabric. A mill selling mainly tubular greige fabric may gain little benefit.

Machine Selection Checklist

Before requesting a quotation, provide the supplier with:

  1. Fabric sample or structure

  2. Yarn composition and count

  3. Required greige and finished GSM

  4. Required finished width

  5. Tubular or open-width dyeing route

  6. Printing, stentering or compacting requirements

  7. Elastane or plating requirements

  8. Expected roll diameter and weight

  9. Available floor space

  10. Target daily output and realistic operating efficiency

Also request a fabric trial that confirms edge condition, width stability, winding quality and the absence of a permanent centre crease under the intended production conditions.

Choose the Complete Production Route, Not Only the Knitting Head

The correct take-down system connects knitting with dyeing, finishing, inspection and cutting. Open-width production is valuable when it solves a defined fabric or process problem; tubular production remains practical when the mill’s downstream equipment and customer orders are built around tube-form fabric.

If you are comparing tubular and open-width configurations, send HENGYE Machinery your fabric sample together with the yarn count, GSM, finished width, finishing route and roll requirements. Our technical team can help assess whether a single-jersey or double-jersey open-width machine is appropriate before preparing the final configuration and quotation.